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Czech Republic

Brno

Mummified monks, a nuclear bunker you can sleep in, and the second biggest pile of bones in Europe.

Everyone does Prague. The ones who know keep going to Brno, an hour or two south, where the best of it is underground: a crypt of mummified monks, a Cold War bunker you can sleep in, medieval cellars, and the second largest ossuary in Europe hiding under a working church.

It is smaller, cheaper and far less trampled than Prague, and you can see most of it in a long weekend, most of it below street level.

Go when Autumn or winter. The underground sits at a steady cold all year, so save Brno for when it is grim up top too.

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Haunt

What to See

Ossuaries, oddity museums, cemeteries and the properly strange.

  1. Capuchin Crypt

    City centre cryptmummies

    Under the Capuchin church, rows of monks laid straight on the bare earth that mummified them, plus a few embalmed nobles gone leathery with time. The sign at the door reads, more or less, as you are now, we once were. Reviewers call it eerie and unsettling and mean it as praise. Be respectful, no selfies with the dead, and note they charge extra if you want to take photos.

    • Quiet
    • Adults only
  2. Ossuary at the Church of St. James

    Jakubské náměstí ossuary

    The second largest ossuary in Europe, around 50,000 plague, cholera and war dead stacked in artful vaults down the steps outside St. James church, sealed and forgotten for centuries until roadworks found them in 2001. Smaller than Paris and people will tell you so, maybe twenty minutes end to end, but the way the bones are arranged is quietly staggering. (Our addition, the one glaring gap in your list.)

    • Quiet
    • Adults only
  3. Water Tanks under Žlutý Kopec

    Žlutý kopec undergroundguided

    Three vast 19th-century underground reservoirs, brick arches doubled in a few inches of black water, columns vanishing into the dark, with acoustics reviewers compare to the Basilica Cistern in Istanbul. There is a light installation through the vaults. One of the most photogenic places in the country and almost nobody outside Brno knows it is there.

    Best shot The brick vaults mirrored in the black water. Long exposure, and a tripod if they allow it. The shot of Brno.

    • Quiet
    • Solo-friendly
  4. Labyrinth Under the Vegetable Market

    Zelný trh cellarsguided

    Medieval cellars tunnelled under the old market square, with an original pillory among the relics and, the guide will happily tell you, worse. Confined and cold and genuinely good, run in small groups. English tours exist despite what some reviews claim, and you should book ahead.

    • Solo-friendly
  5. Cellar beneath the New Town Hall

    Dominikánské náměstí exhibition

    The lightest stop on this list, and honest is honest: it is less dripping crypt, more interactive exhibition about coin minting and the legend of the Brno dragon, that stuffed winged crocodile hanging in the old town hall. Reviewers call it good for children, which tells you the register. Mint your own coin for pocket change and move on.

    • Solo-friendly
    • Kid-heavy
  6. Kryt Denis

    Below Petrov, near the station bunker

    An air-raid shelter tunnelled into the hillside below Petrov, so obscure it has a few dozen reviews, run by two enthusiasts who will pull the English speakers aside for their own small tour. Bring a layer. Ask for the guide with the blue dreadlocks.

    • Quiet
    • Solo-friendly
  7. Moravian Karst & Punkva Caves

    30 min north, day trip cavesday trip

    A limestone landscape of caves north of the city built around the Macocha Abyss, a 138 metre sinkhole named for a stepmother who, the story goes, threw her stepson in. A walk through the caverns, then a boat along the underground Punkva river, then a funicular up to the abyss. It is spectacular and it is on every tour bus route, twelve thousand reviews deep, so book the boat well ahead.

    Best shot The Macocha Abyss viewing platform over the 138 metre drop, best with morning mist rising out of the hole.

    • Touristy
  8. Petrov Cathedral

    Petrov gothic

    The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, neo-gothic spires rising over the city from their own hill. The Brno skyline’s one true gothic note, and its bells famously ring noon an hour early.

    Best shot The neo-gothic spires of Saints Peter and Paul on their hill, floodlit once the light goes.

Rest

Where to Stay

B&Bs, haunted old hotels, Victorian piles. No hostels, ever.

  1. Bunker 10-Z

    $
    Špilberk Castle park bunkerunusual

    A decommissioned nuclear bunker under Špilberk hill that you can actually sleep in, behind blast doors, on a bunk in the dark. Reviewers put it best: forget comfort, but it is clean, the staff are lovely, and there is breakfast and, improbably, wifi. Less a hotel than an experience, and the most on-brand night in the country. No hostels, but a nuclear bunker, absolutely.

    • Adults only
    • Quiet
  2. Barceló Brno Palace

    $$$
    Old Town historic

    A 19th-century neo-Renaissance palace turned hotel in the middle of the old town, grand staircase and all, for when you want your gloom with room service. (Our addition, not from the list.)

    • Quiet

Feast

Where to Eat & Drink

Candlelit cellars, dark bars, rooms with history in the walls.

  1. Super Panda Circus

    $$$
    City centre speakeasycocktails

    A reservation-only cocktail bar with no menu and a circus-of-curiosities theme, where drinks arrive inside props and smoke and the odd theatrical flourish. Hidden, strange, exactly your kind of night. (Our addition.)

    • Adults only
  2. Bar, který neexistuje

    $$
    City centre cocktails

    The Bar That Doesn’t Exist. A big, dark, beautiful cocktail bar with a wall of bottles and a reputation to match, which means it fills up fast. Go early or book. (Our addition.)

    • Adults only
    • Party scene